The Long & Bumpy Road To Gondar.

The Long & Bumpy Road To Gondar.

  I woke up to a new day in Awassa, and things seemed a bit brighter. The hotel looked over Lake Awassa, which was a brilliant blue in the sunshine. I had a well deserved breakfast and was served coffee by a man in a waistcoat, a much better start than the previous day. I […]

Ethiopia & The Hardest Day.

Ethiopia & The Hardest Day.

I crossed the bridge at Moyale into Ethiopia in the late afternoon after 14 hours on the road, and parked my car at the customs compound. I found the immigration office on the other side of the road but it was empty, not a single official to be found. The place was abandoned. Eventually an […]

On The Road Again: Nairobi to Moyale.

On The Road Again: Nairobi to Moyale.

I stayed on in Nairobi until the last possible day, partly because I had come to feel so at home in Nairobi, and partly because everything north of Nairobi was wilderness. Up until this point everything was easy and familiar and help was never too far away. I slept fitfully before getting up at 3am. I packed my […]

The Two Faces of Nairobi.

The Two Faces of Nairobi.

The Embassy of The Sudan reopened after the weekend of The Haj. Boas arrived at Wildebeest at 8:30 am and we weaved our way between the traffic of the Southern Bypass and through Kibera once again, arriving at the Embassy shortly before it opened. The Embassy is accessible through a small gate house on the […]

Back to Nairobi.

Back to Nairobi.

I booked my flight back to Nairobi the night before I left. A courier from the visa agency met me between my flights to return my passport, complete with Ethiopian and Egyptian visas. It was all very last minute. As would be the next few weeks. I had spent my time at home after my […]

Crossley & Webb

Crossley & Webb

I snuck into Dargle on a Friday evening. I had outsourced my visa applications to an agency in Johannesburg. This is a lot easier than doing it yourself, and unless you live in Johannatoria, much cheaper too. So I headed home to wait while they pushed the applications through. A friend picked me up from a […]

Heading Home.

Heading Home.

I spent a week in Nairobi after my first visit to the Embassy of Ethiopia. Wildebeest was a good place to while away the time as I searched for a way to get a visa without flying home. A visit to the Egyptian Embassy revealed  I couldn’t get a visa for Egypt in Nairobi either, […]

Things unravel in Nairobi

Things unravel in Nairobi

Arusha hadn’t inspired me in the way I hoped it would. I’m sure it’s lovely when you’re in good health and good weather; I was not. My poisoning in Bagamoyo and my night in the wilderness had left me very weary, and the moody weather had followed me from Bagamoyo too. I had chosen this […]

Near Death Experiences on the Road to Arusha.

Near Death Experiences on the Road to Arusha.

I had made myself very much at home at Firefly, and Jo, the owner, was awfully sweet to me. She loved the car, and I certainly would not have hung around Bagamoyo as long as I did if it hadn’t been for her. I spent my time reading while the rain poured down on the tin […]

The Ghost Town of Bagamoyo.

The Ghost Town of Bagamoyo.

My friends were moving on, and I knew it was time to bid a farewell to Mikadi Beach and to Dar es Salaam. I once again crossed the harbour on the old car ferry, this time in a record hour and a half. It was low tide and I was glad I had adjusted the […]

A Return to Mikadi Beach.

A Return to Mikadi Beach.

  Having dealt with the same con again to get my ticket back to Dar es Salaam “No boat to Dar, only Pemba” I sat on the walls of the harbour feeling slightly melancholic, knowing that the party was over. Or more accurately that the party was going on, and I was leaving. I watched […]

Paje and a Return to Dar.

Paje and a Return to Dar.

On the eastern side of Zanzibar there’s small town on the beach called Paje. This is where we were heading. Erik, Anders and I caught a Matatu (minibus taxi) from Zanzibar city heading east towards Jozani in the morning. We stood on the side of a noisy Zanzibar City street, with all our luggage looking […]

Across The Waters To Zanzibar.

Across The Waters To Zanzibar.

In the days following the great party at Mikadi Beach we all seemed to commit ourselves to simply relaxing. Some of us (yes, me) needed a little rest and relaxation in order to recover from what felt like pretty acute alcohol poisoning, after foolishly betting a ski instructor that writers were more hardened drinkers. But […]

What Happens In Dar…

What Happens In Dar…

I woke up outside, next to my tent, not in it. I was, however, on my mattress, so that situation must have been the result of a certain amount of consideration. What was obviously not considered was that I would wake up in a swarm of mosquitos. Mikadi was abandoned. All over there was evidence […]

Tent Sufring in Dar es Salaam

Tent Sufring in Dar es Salaam

After three days on the road I touched down on the white sands of Mikadi Beach. Coconut trees swayed in the breeze and little wooden fishing boats sailed along the calm waters, heading to and from the fish market. It was just as I had imagined. After parking my car in deep beach sand, under […]