Things unravel in Nairobi

Things unravel in Nairobi

Arusha hadn’t inspired me in the way I hoped it would. I’m sure it’s lovely when you’re in good health and good weather; I was not. My poisoning in Bagamoyo and my night in the wilderness had left me very weary, and the moody weather had followed me from Bagamoyo too. I had chosen this […]

Near Death Experiences on the Road to Arusha.

Near Death Experiences on the Road to Arusha.

I had made myself very much at home at Firefly, and Jo, the owner, was awfully sweet to me. She loved the car, and I certainly would not have hung around Bagamoyo as long as I did if it hadn’t been for her. I spent my time reading while the rain poured down on the tin […]

The Ghost Town of Bagamoyo.

The Ghost Town of Bagamoyo.

My friends were moving on, and I knew it was time to bid a farewell to Mikadi Beach and to Dar es Salaam. I once again crossed the harbour on the old car ferry, this time in a record hour and a half. It was low tide and I was glad I had adjusted the […]

A Return to Mikadi Beach.

A Return to Mikadi Beach.

  Having dealt with the same con again to get my ticket back to Dar es Salaam “No boat to Dar, only Pemba” I sat on the walls of the harbour feeling slightly melancholic, knowing that the party was over. Or more accurately that the party was going on, and I was leaving. I watched […]

Paje and a Return to Dar.

Paje and a Return to Dar.

On the eastern side of Zanzibar there’s small town on the beach called Paje. This is where we were heading. Erik, Anders and I caught a Matatu (minibus taxi) from Zanzibar city heading east towards Jozani in the morning. We stood on the side of a noisy Zanzibar City street, with all our luggage looking […]

What Happens In Dar…

What Happens In Dar…

I woke up outside, next to my tent, not in it. I was, however, on my mattress, so that situation must have been the result of a certain amount of consideration. What was obviously not considered was that I would wake up in a swarm of mosquitos. Mikadi was abandoned. All over there was evidence […]

Tent Sufring in Dar es Salaam

Tent Sufring in Dar es Salaam

After three days on the road I touched down on the white sands of Mikadi Beach. Coconut trees swayed in the breeze and little wooden fishing boats sailed along the calm waters, heading to and from the fish market. It was just as I had imagined. After parking my car in deep beach sand, under […]

Forward Unto Dar! (Part 3)

Forward Unto Dar! (Part 3)

This is the 3rd part in my dash across Tanzania. Check out Part 1 and Part 2 as well. I awoke at 3am to pack up camp, as I had done before in Lusaka. The night was surprisingly cold, but I suppose I was still at altitude and far inland. I had a breakfast of […]

Forward Unto Dar! (Part 2)

Forward Unto Dar! (Part 2)

The dark night, full of the sounds of an Afrian city, gave way to another wonderfully blue morning, full of light and possibilities. It’s always easier to be optimistic in the bright light of the morning. I had spent the night at a church in Mbeya, on the western edge of Tanzania. The night before […]

Forward unto Dar! (Part 1)

Forward unto Dar! (Part 1)

After my visit to Shiwa House, I returned to Kapishya and its hot spring, down the bumpy red dust road. A layer of dust had settled on top of the dash, and to this day my car has never been truly clean. The Dutch students had returned to Mpika in the morning to continue with […]