Welcome To Egypt.

Welcome To Egypt.

My day off in Aswan had been my first non-driving day since leaving Nairobi. It was a nice opportunity to rest up a little, and do some travel basics such as laundry. But the mood in Aswan wasn’t great for travellers, so I set my sights on the Israeli border at Eilat. I got an […]

Lake Nubia, Abu Simbel, & Aswan.

Lake Nubia, Abu Simbel, & Aswan.

Just north of the Sudanese border town of Wadi Halfa there is a new land border connecting Sudan and Egypt. This is a recent development and until a couple of years ago all overland travellers had to use the infamous Wadi Halfa – Aswan ferry, and the cars would follow a few days later on a […]

The Acropole & The Desert.

The Acropole & The Desert.

After the longest night of my life and a long drive through the desert I arrived in Khartoum, Sudan’s capital city at the confluence of the Nile. The Alfa had been struggling in the heat and the traffic. The poor quality fuel and the 50 degree heat caused it to ping very easily. I had […]

The Sudan & The Hardest Night.

The Sudan & The Hardest Night.

A few hours after I arrived at the Goha Hotel Tarek, who I had met in Bahir Dar, arrived as well, he was also heading to Sudan the following morning, so we decided we’d head out together, with one other car, in the morning. I had a good dinner and I good night’s rest before […]

The Long & Bumpy Road To Gondar.

The Long & Bumpy Road To Gondar.

  I woke up to a new day in Awassa, and things seemed a bit brighter. The hotel looked over Lake Awassa, which was a brilliant blue in the sunshine. I had a well deserved breakfast and was served coffee by a man in a waistcoat, a much better start than the previous day. I […]

Ethiopia & The Hardest Day.

Ethiopia & The Hardest Day.

I crossed the bridge at Moyale into Ethiopia in the late afternoon after 14 hours on the road, and parked my car at the customs compound. I found the immigration office on the other side of the road but it was empty, not a single official to be found. The place was abandoned. Eventually an […]

On The Road Again: Nairobi to Moyale.

On The Road Again: Nairobi to Moyale.

I stayed on in Nairobi until the last possible day, partly because I had come to feel so at home in Nairobi, and partly because everything north of Nairobi was wilderness. Up until this point everything was easy and familiar and help was never too far away. I slept fitfully before getting up at 3am. I packed my […]

The Two Faces of Nairobi.

The Two Faces of Nairobi.

The Embassy of The Sudan reopened after the weekend of The Haj. Boas arrived at Wildebeest at 8:30 am and we weaved our way between the traffic of the Southern Bypass and through Kibera once again, arriving at the Embassy shortly before it opened. The Embassy is accessible through a small gate house on the […]

Back to Nairobi.

Back to Nairobi.

I booked my flight back to Nairobi the night before I left. A courier from the visa agency met me between my flights to return my passport, complete with Ethiopian and Egyptian visas. It was all very last minute. As would be the next few weeks. I had spent my time at home after my […]

Crossley & Webb

Crossley & Webb

I snuck into Dargle on a Friday evening. I had outsourced my visa applications to an agency in Johannesburg. This is a lot easier than doing it yourself, and unless you live in Johannatoria, much cheaper too. So I headed home to wait while they pushed the applications through. A friend picked me up from a […]

Heading Home.

Heading Home.

I spent a week in Nairobi after my first visit to the Embassy of Ethiopia. Wildebeest was a good place to while away the time as I searched for a way to get a visa without flying home. A visit to the Egyptian Embassy revealed  I couldn’t get a visa for Egypt in Nairobi either, […]

Things unravel in Nairobi

Things unravel in Nairobi

Arusha hadn’t inspired me in the way I hoped it would. I’m sure it’s lovely when you’re in good health and good weather; I was not. My poisoning in Bagamoyo and my night in the wilderness had left me very weary, and the moody weather had followed me from Bagamoyo too. I had chosen this […]

Near Death Experiences on the Road to Arusha.

Near Death Experiences on the Road to Arusha.

I had made myself very much at home at Firefly, and Jo, the owner, was awfully sweet to me. She loved the car, and I certainly would not have hung around Bagamoyo as long as I did if it hadn’t been for her. I spent my time reading while the rain poured down on the tin […]

The Ghost Town of Bagamoyo.

The Ghost Town of Bagamoyo.

My friends were moving on, and I knew it was time to bid a farewell to Mikadi Beach and to Dar es Salaam. I once again crossed the harbour on the old car ferry, this time in a record hour and a half. It was low tide and I was glad I had adjusted the […]

A Return to Mikadi Beach.

A Return to Mikadi Beach.

  Having dealt with the same con again to get my ticket back to Dar es Salaam “No boat to Dar, only Pemba” I sat on the walls of the harbour feeling slightly melancholic, knowing that the party was over. Or more accurately that the party was going on, and I was leaving. I watched […]